I moved to Saint Francis’s tomb after breakfast. Morning time is perfect for cold weather and no or little of people. Basilica di San Francesco is beautiful for visit in this time. It was joyful walking. I would wish to visit a bell town to which is no door by get second memorable – there the priests hid Jews in World War II.
I went down and witnessed occurring of morning rite. I so wished in clear details from the end and didn’t require in come close. I didn’t want to disturb. But I saw an appeared man who made pictures and later returned to a bench for be a part of the rite. I moved to there and did movement back for checking behind by getting the bricks. I did in Assisi everything.
I don’t feel in relocating from a big city to village, but get it vice versa as it was in coming in Umbria’s capital Perugia. Behind of me was a train station. I stayed with a map had only historical part while I was in surrounding of modern grey uniform part. I knew that my way to the north to which I moved. There I saw direction sigh to the center, which was to the east and to where I followed. It was climbing up and I was getting in bones that move in correct way. I had assumption about metro, but I never saw it in my walking up through winding roads.
I entered in the old Perugia by it’s curve stairway, did straight movement and stopped at impressive Fountana Maggiore. Fountains are awakening my eyes. Amazement caused in design, meticulous pictures and these pigs who emitted streams hadn’t odd place. Unusual, but harmonious construction. I observed it by eyes once more later of that day. Then I entered in a hotel for be informed about metro from an incredible receptionist.
Learning of town’s sights launched with visiting of two cathedrals (San Lorenzo and having in Palazzo dei Prioro) on Piazza IV Novembre. Beautiful made when still with below in excitement. I didn’t want, but tried to visit Basilica Di San Domenico and Basilica Di San Pietro in the southern-east part of the old city.
I returned and headed to the north to Temple of Saint Angelo what was in climbing up by stairway. It was award by getting to see an unique in non-standard religious construction with eight angles and using only stone. No images inside. There impression to columns in the center and stick rows of bricks for roof. Engineering magnificence makes memorable this place.
I realized in digging in my bag that I forgot my pen with a snowman on the end. I checked many times before leaving, when I looked only under things and I didn’t look on a bed on which I left my precious to my soul thing. I mailed with that hotel, which informed on detecting and promised to sell to place of my current stop. Although it was risky due to I for two days.
I wanted to visit underground of Perugia, which entrance I saw in the first leaving of the hotel, but I wasn’t curious for check and did after next out on the street. An older ticket salesman in conversation with me asked on age. I answered on what she regrettably said that I don’t fit to parameters of less twenty five years old. Wasn’t because I spoke English, because it was weird. I spoke about that with the receptionist who found it as strange too. He called in office where without hurdles my name was in registration. I returned and saw two people in ticket selling, which hadn’t that old woman. I identified myself to person who will become guide.
It was an Italian group, but I used opportunity and took a tablet what isn’t comfortable when headphones would be correct and extreme brightness for me, a man whose eyes can’t adapt this light from screen of smartphone. Going down under and staying on the street of ancient town – what is negative can write about it? As that rapture was being inside of house of a rich man.
I finished day with eating of three bananas on the street, which weren’t ideal.
Everything wishful was visited in the first day. Not alluring me places were only in choice. The Basilica Di San Domenico used to be decorated in more images, which disappeared while from the third time was discovered Basilica Di San Pietro whose doors were closed. I returned in the hotel after it I went to other underground part Rocca Paoline, which is free. That place used as aisle between top and down of the Perugia.
I was looking for place of tasting of Umbria kitchen and knew for myself that it in simple dishes. In the first day I asked on that the receptionist whose name presumably is Michelle and that hotel in which I stayed is family business. I never look for recommendations, because it makes me feel infirm and I prefer trust to own feelings. However, I asked and got three places. The first had modern approach in big dish, less portion and has a beautiful look. The second had “over” of spices in dishes. I hesitated on the third by combination of restaurant and pizzeria and simplicity of dishes when decided that I must taste country’s national gnocchi, which had that the last called Al Mangiar Bene.
It’s opening time was in 12.30. I came on more ten minutes earlier. I returned to the hotel and moved away in time where I saw queue of people awaiting when closed door will welcome as it soon occurred. It was exactly place, which only locals know. Inconspicuous and hidden from tourist route. A venue where you must all tables can be ordered before coming, but I was lucky. I got a table where relocated chair on ninety degrees, because I don’t like to situate on potential aisle for many moving people. I looked in menu, which revealed that I made mistake in Assisi. I forgot that “Rosso” is rose when “Rossi” what is correct for “red”. Santa Lucia!
But I did one more lonely word mistake. It was in that venue. I ordered gnocchi and I didn’t want with sauce. A waiter with not the best English in the world couldn’t explain that dish requires a sauce, but I got it. I saw their menu, read about sauces and listened how to pronounce. I wanted their Umbrian and asked “norcia” by saying “norchia”, but I forgot when actually “norchia” was correct. The waited accepted it for “norchina” (norcina). I asked about Umbrian origin, which the waiter confirmed, because it would be hard to explain. Later, when I revealed whole truth, actually norcina is Umbrian sauce, which I must ordered. The second dish was baked cheese Scamorza with truffles, which I ordered for mushrooms by didn’t expecting that I get a normal opportunity to taste them. Warning on bread and taking money for service.
The other came waiter offered cheese from which I rejected, but I called him few seconds later for inform on changing of my mind. Gnocchi were tender in chewing with beautiful sauce kinda reminded tartar by color and taste, but for this dish. Sprinkled cheese is requiring part for dish. Cut bread, which served with gnocchi, was must for finishing balance in eating of it. It’s not professional that nobody warned about bread, which even though just cost two euros, but it looked as fraud. I was in many restaurants where put bread and didn’t take money for that. Also I consider establishment, which don’t say or inform, but has taking of some percent for service – it makes cheaper this venue.
You can’t say much on baked cheese. Scamorza was edible. It was pleasant in eating with truffles whereas I had a good size opportunity to eat only mushrooms, which were incredible in chewing. The most wonderful was in biting places with knobs of this elite dish.
I spent the rest of day in the hotel. Once I heard from breakfast room how family has a good time on talking and laughing. And I willn’t write, as I never did, for intended dramatizing, but I experienced the Christmas spirit.
After the night and after the breakfast, I talked with Michelle who must receive the pen and he will send on one post-office box on which I receive letters. I had warm contact with the receptionist. It finished in joyful for both of us stance. We did a handshake, I wished “Buon Anno” (Happy New Year), he answered “auguri” (best wishes) and we said farewell words.
I used metro, which was an underground funicular by whose engineering mind I was impressed. I would wish to sit for more stations or enter on the first one instead of the second. I was thinking on efforts spent to dig this tunnel from upper part to down. It amazes as rollercoaster by looking forward through a glass window.
By leaving hotel, I saw that I bought a full map when a train station was on the west instead I oriented from the center. I arrived by watching that I was in short distance to metro. I don’t have regret, because it was interesting way to know city and actually I adore this way and do with a paper map as I love to travel alone, because you one with everybody. Unknown territory, usually alien language and you without any ties behind. By all that, I know about country. And visit to Italy pushes to learn country’s language.
Currently today, I reached San Gimignano and already have stories from there, which I shall write too.
